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Kandura Mania

Wes@Play - Buying a Kandura in Dubai

Posted December 26, 2009 - Updated Nov 16, 2010

Many thanks to the grapeshisha website for explaining the parts of a kandura. You can see their description here.

What is a Kandura?

Me in my kandura
Me in my kandura. You can just see that I have the left side of my gutra tucked into my egal to get it out of my face.

The kandura (khan-doh-ruh, khan-doo-ruh) is the flowing white robe you sometimes see men from the Middle East wearing.

The kandura is part of the national dress for men in Dubai, but can be seen in various forms throughout the region.

The kandura is known by many names depending on which country you're visiting. For example, some people in Dubai may also refer to it as a "dishdash", while people from Egypt may call it a "thobe".

I saw my first kandura at the Dubai airport. A group of men came sweeping through the main terminal, and they were so striking and moved so elegantly that I knew I had to have one.

Having grown up in Sacramento, California—where summer temperatures range from 90-115 degrees Fahrenheit—I also thought it might make a practical addition to my wardrobe.

What Makes Up the Outfit

  Kandura - the parts of the outfit
   
Headwear

gutra (or kafiyeh)
the flowing cloth worn over the head

This is often white, but can also be colored, or have fancy embroidery or a pattern. The gutra is a square of fabric about 4 feet wide. My gutra is made of a polyester gauze that looks like silk. The nice thing is that you can tuck it into the side of the egal when you want to see to the right or left side.

Me in my kandura
In this photo, you can clearly see the taqiyah poking out from underneath my gutra, which is kind of a no-no.

WEARING A GUTRA
To wear a gutra, you fold it once diagonally into a triangle, place it over your head with the long side against your forehead, pull the two long ends down to equal lengths, then put the egal over it to hold it in place. This is surprisingly sturdy, even on blustery days (20-30 mile gusts).

The gutra is practical for two reasons: 1) it's white, so it reflects the sun, and 2) it's gauze, so you can breath through it even if it's wrapped up around your face.

egal
the rope that holds the gutra to the wearer's head

I've only seen these in black, and I've heard they are made of camel's hair. Since I can't read Arabic, I have no idea what mine is made of but it's definitely natural material.

My egal has two long dangling ropes that hang down to my waist with a fancy silver decoration, though most I saw in Dubai were shorter, ending a few inches below the wearer's neck. These need to be sized just as you would a hat. The one I bought cannot be adjusted.

taqiyah
a small cap worn underneath the gutra

You don't normally see the taqiyah, since it's covered by the gutra. Mine is white crocheted cotton with an intricate pattern. In the US, it's sometimes called a "kufi," which I believe is the African name.

NOTE: I've wrongly been calling the taqiyah a "kafiyeh", which it turns out is another name for a "gutra".

 

Worn on
the body

kandura
a neck to ankle-length robe with sleeves, that buttons down the chest

Kanduras are measured by neck size and neck to ankle length. Since most Westerners don't know the latter, have them measure you at the shop. You put them on over your head, much like an anorak.

Me in my kandura
Kanduras fluoresce under black lights.

MATERIAL
Both of my kanduras are made of polyester, which makes laundering easy. The fabrics vary from fairly course (similar to sailcloth) to silky smooth. The latter feels great, but tends to snag.

WEARING A KANDURA
You cannot take big steps while wearing a kandura, and you have to pull it up a bit when navigating stairs.

faneela
a special undershirt beneath a kandura
My faneela soaks up sweat and make the kandura look whiter. Mine is a modern version which looks exactly like a regular white t-shirt, although the cotton is of finer quality.

woozar
the "underwear" worn beneath a kandura
I've heard this described as "a simple cloth" so I thought it would be similar to a Japanese "fundoshi", but mine look more like baggy white boxer shorts. These are also made out of polyester. See a trend here?

Kandura Options

As with a Western business shirt, kanduras come in a variety of styles. You can choose the material, the color, the collar and sleeves, pockets, fasteners, etc. His Highness Shaikh Mohammed bin Rashid Al Maktoum, Vice-President, Prime Minister of the UAE and Ruler of Dubai sometimes wears them in pastel colors, and looks fantastic.

Kandura #1
My collar-less kandura has a long kerkusha, which is the long knotted tassel that hangs from the front of the kandura's collar. Mine has 11 knots, which may have a religious significance (similar to a Jewish tzitzit prayer shawl). The sleeves are plain with no cuffs and the material is rather thick polyester is stiff like sail cloth, so I wear this one more often.

DO NOT wash your kerkusha in a washing machine or it will self-destruct as mine did. Remove it and handwash it.

Kandura #2
My collared kandura has no kerkusha, but it does have cuffs, a straight collar (like a Nehru jacket), a chest pocket, and is made from a much silkier polyester. Unfortunately, as I was born with a short neck this kandura is very uncomfortable to wear, so I save it for special occasions.

The kandura I bought for my boyfriend is a very silky polyester with a sheen. I can't imagine wearing real silk in 110F degrees (it's dusty and windy in Dubai).

Several articles I read about kanduras mentioned that the locals change kanduras many times a day, which probably explains how they remain spotlessly white in a dusty desert landscape.

bisht
The ceremonial robe worn on top of the kandura

I didn't mention this earlier because I don't own one (yet). The ones I saw in the store were quite fancy and pricey, so I didn't get one. Actually, they weren't fancy enough since I've seen versions with zari embroidery that was breathtaking.

I've read that these are sometimes worn during cold weather, but that doesn't quite sound right given the winter temperature in Dubai (23 C). I don't think they're really necessary, unless you're planning on wearing your kandura through a Chicago winter.

 

Footwear

na-aal
sandals
These are special sandals you can buy, but I chose not to. In retrospect, this was a big mistake, since wearing other shoes looks odd (I normally wear cowboy boots). Prada loafers, however, look just fine.

Shopping for a Kandura in Dubai

The concierge at the Emirate Tower Hotel asked me if I wanted a tailored kandura or one off the rack. I said tailored, so she sent me to the Satwa district "where the Pakistani tailors are". She also said that a made-to-measure kandura would take 3-5 hours to make from scratch.

The Satwa district is about 2-3 miles from the Emirates Tower Hotel. It looks like any city street anywhere: the roads are narrow and full of cars, but I had the sidewalk to myself since it was 100+ degrees with a stiff, hot wind. (NOTE: The bus stops are air-conditioned in Dubai.)

I wandered a bit to find the tailors, which was relatively simple since they're all clumped together.

The first shop I went to was the Al Madani Group of Tailors, which I highly recommend. I stopped here mostly because I saw a man in a kandura leave the shop. I asked in English how long for a tailored kandura and they said "20 days," which I think may be safely translated as "forget about it, silly tourist."

They did have a limited selection of off-the-rack kanduras. There was one in my size with a nice long kerkusha, which I bought immediately. When I said that I also wanted a taqiyeh, gutra, and egal, they're interest went way up.

They showed me how to put on the gutra. The egal took a few tries because I have a large head (around 7-5/8). I ended up with a nice one with long dangling ropes in the back tied with gold thread. I also bought one for Scott with silver threads. The kafiyeh was crocheted with a nice pattern.

The Burj Dubai, which is right next to the Dubai Mall
The Burj Dubai (the world's tallest building) is next to the Dubai Mall. DO NOT confuse the Dubai Mall with the Mall of the Emirates (which has the ski ramp).

The second tailor that I tried, which was just around the corner, wouldn't acknowledge my presence and shall therefore remain nameless. I literally just stood there for 15 minutes. He was busy talking to another customer in Arabic, so I decided to just enjoy the air-conditioning and watch. He was fitting two boys and the father was giving instructions on what he wanted. When my feet started hurting, I said "Salaam" to another man in the shop and asked if he spoke English. Then French. Then Spanish. Then really bad Hindi. No luck. The man who was ignoring me spoke English, but he just sent me away until after lunch ("After I eat."). I took the hint and went back to the hotel.

Dubai Mall

Later the same day, I took a taxi to the Dubai Mall, which you must see to believe. They pointed me to the Arabic Court, which is on a lower level. Keep in mind that this mall is the size of six or seven US malls combined, so if you get lost ask for help.

I settled on Al Yashmac (Dubai Mall, Lower Level, corner of the Arabic Court). The salesmen were very friendly and spoke English. I bought a kandura for Scott with a kurkusha, another kandura for me with a collar, two faneelas, and two woozars.

While I'm sure they thought my interest was strange, I'm sure they've seen enough tourists to tolerate it.

Popularizing Kanduras in the US

Scott and Wes in our kanduras
We often go out shopping, to museums, and to nightclubs in our kanduras. This is on J St. in Sacramento.

This is my next big challenge. If you separate the costume from the politics, there are many hot, dry, windy regions of the United States where people would benefit from a kandura, including California's central valley. They are by far the most elegant way I've seen of beating the heat.

Scott and I went to the California State Fair (Cal Expo) wearing our kanduras. I wasn't sure what the reception would be, and didn't really care. Mostly people stared and smiled; a dozen or so people asked if we were hot in them, if they had a special meaning, or if they could touch them. No one ignored us.

Are Kanduras Comfortable?

Yes. In hot, muggy weather, they are especially nice since a) they're white and reflect the sun's rays, b) they let air flow around the body, and c) you can cross your legs without any restriction. Japanese hakama (the "skirt" worn by horsemen and samurai) are similarly open.

In colder weather (San Francisco fog and wind), they are warm enough not to warrant a coat. You get the best of both worlds. Plus, when the wind blows, they looks especially striking.

Kanduras also help hide a belly. Several of the men I saw in Dubai were obese, but the kandura cloaked their paunch rather than accentuating it like trousers.

Kandura at the California State Fair (Cal Expo)

You can see in the picture above how long the egal can be. Some are much shorter, ending in the middle of the back.

Feedback

If you want to send me a note, go here. I'm especially interested in hearing from people who have worn kanduras, or those who spotted an egregious error in my write-up.

 

 


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