
Wes@Play - Buying a Kandura in Dubai
Posted December 26, 2009 - Updated Nov 16,
2010
Many thanks to the grapeshisha website
for explaining the parts of a kandura. You can see their
description here.
What is a Kandura?
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| Me in my kandura.
You can just see that I have the left side of my gutra
tucked into my egal to get it out of my face. |
The kandura (khan-doh-ruh, khan-doo-ruh)
is the flowing white robe you sometimes see men from the
Middle East wearing.
The kandura is part of the national
dress for men in Dubai, but can be seen in various forms
throughout the region.
The kandura is known by many names depending
on which country you're visiting. For example, some people
in Dubai may also refer to it as a "dishdash",
while people
from Egypt may call it a "thobe".
I saw my first kandura at the Dubai airport.
A group of men came sweeping through the main terminal, and
they were so striking and moved so elegantly that I knew
I had to have one.
Having grown up in Sacramento, California—where
summer temperatures range from 90-115 degrees Fahrenheit—I
also thought it might make a practical addition to my wardrobe.
What Makes Up the Outfit
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| Headwear |
gutra (or
kafiyeh)
the flowing cloth worn over the head
This is often
white, but can also be colored, or have fancy embroidery
or a pattern. The gutra is a square of fabric about
4 feet wide. My gutra is made of a polyester
gauze that looks like silk. The nice thing is that
you can tuck it into the side of the egal when you
want to see to the right or left side.
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| In this photo, you can clearly
see the taqiyah poking out from underneath my
gutra, which is kind of a no-no. |
WEARING A GUTRA
To wear a gutra, you fold
it once diagonally into a triangle, place it over your
head with the long side against your forehead,
pull the two long ends down to equal lengths, then
put the egal over it to hold it in place. This is surprisingly
sturdy, even on blustery days (20-30 mile gusts).
The gutra is practical for two reasons:
1) it's white, so it reflects the sun, and 2) it's
gauze, so you can breath through it even if it's wrapped
up around your face.
egal
the rope that holds the gutra to the wearer's
head
I've only seen these in black, and I've heard
they are made of camel's hair. Since I can't read Arabic,
I have no idea what mine is made of but it's definitely
natural material.
My egal has two
long dangling ropes that hang down to my waist with
a fancy silver decoration, though most I saw in Dubai
were shorter, ending a few inches below the wearer's
neck. These need to be sized just as you would
a hat. The one I bought cannot be adjusted.
taqiyah
a small cap worn underneath the gutra
You don't
normally see the taqiyah, since it's covered by
the gutra. Mine is white crocheted cotton
with an intricate pattern. In the US, it's sometimes
called a "kufi," which I believe is the
African name.
NOTE: I've wrongly been calling the
taqiyah a "kafiyeh", which it turns out is another
name for a "gutra".
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Worn on
the body |
kandura
a neck to ankle-length robe with
sleeves, that buttons down the chest
Kanduras are measured by neck size
and neck to ankle length. Since most Westerners don't
know the latter, have them measure you at the shop.
You put them on over your head, much like an anorak.
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| Kanduras
fluoresce under black lights. |
MATERIAL
Both of my kanduras are made of polyester, which makes
laundering easy. The fabrics vary
from fairly course (similar
to sailcloth) to silky smooth. The latter feels great,
but tends to snag.
WEARING A KANDURA
You cannot take big steps while wearing a kandura,
and you have to pull it up a bit when navigating stairs.
faneela
a special undershirt beneath a kandura
My faneela soaks up sweat
and make the kandura look whiter. Mine is a modern
version which looks exactly like a regular
white t-shirt, although the cotton is of finer quality.
woozar
the "underwear" worn
beneath a kandura
I've
heard this described as "a simple cloth" so
I thought it would be similar
to a Japanese
"fundoshi", but mine look more like baggy
white boxer shorts. These are also made out of polyester.
See a trend here?
Kandura Options
As with a Western business shirt, kanduras
come in a variety of styles. You can choose the material,
the color, the collar and sleeves, pockets, fasteners,
etc. His Highness Shaikh Mohammed bin Rashid Al Maktoum,
Vice-President, Prime Minister of the UAE and Ruler
of Dubai sometimes wears them in pastel colors, and
looks fantastic.
Kandura #1
My collar-less kandura has a long kerkusha,
which is the long knotted tassel that hangs from
the front of the kandura's collar. Mine has 11 knots,
which may have a religious significance (similar
to a Jewish tzitzit prayer shawl). The sleeves are
plain with no cuffs and the material is rather thick
polyester is stiff like sail cloth, so I wear this
one more often.
DO NOT wash your kerkusha in a washing
machine or it will self-destruct as mine did. Remove
it and handwash it.
Kandura #2
My collared kandura has no kerkusha, but
it does have cuffs, a straight collar (like a Nehru
jacket), a chest pocket, and is made from a much
silkier polyester. Unfortunately, as I was born with
a short neck this kandura is very uncomfortable to
wear, so I save it for special occasions.
The kandura I bought for my boyfriend
is a very silky polyester with a sheen. I can't imagine
wearing real silk in 110F degrees (it's dusty and
windy in Dubai).
Several articles I read about kanduras
mentioned that the locals change kanduras many times
a day, which probably explains how they remain
spotlessly white in a dusty desert landscape.
bisht
The ceremonial
robe worn on top of the kandura
I didn't mention this earlier because I don't own one (yet).
The ones I saw in the store were quite fancy and pricey,
so I didn't get one. Actually, they weren't fancy enough since I've seen versions
with zari embroidery that was breathtaking.
I've read that these are sometimes worn during cold weather,
but that doesn't quite sound right given the winter temperature in Dubai (23
C). I don't think they're really necessary, unless you're planning on wearing
your kandura through a Chicago winter.
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| Footwear |
na-aal
sandals
These are special sandals you can buy, but
I chose not to. In retrospect, this was a big mistake,
since wearing other shoes looks odd (I normally
wear cowboy boots).
Prada loafers, however, look just fine. |
Shopping for a Kandura in Dubai
The concierge at the Emirate Tower
Hotel asked me if I wanted
a tailored kandura or one off the rack. I said tailored,
so she sent me to the Satwa district "where the Pakistani
tailors are". She also said that a made-to-measure
kandura would take 3-5 hours to make from scratch.
The Satwa district is about
2-3 miles from the Emirates Tower Hotel. It looks like any
city street anywhere: the roads are narrow and full of cars,
but I had the sidewalk to myself since it was 100+ degrees
with a stiff, hot wind. (NOTE: The bus stops are air-conditioned
in Dubai.)
I wandered a bit to find the tailors, which
was relatively simple since they're all clumped together.
The first shop I went to was the Al
Madani Group of Tailors, which I highly recommend.
I stopped here mostly because I saw a man in a kandura leave the shop. I asked in English how long for a tailored
kandura and they said "20 days," which I think
may be safely translated as "forget about it, silly
tourist."
They did have a limited selection of off-the-rack
kanduras. There was one in my size with a nice long kerkusha,
which I bought immediately. When I said that I also wanted
a taqiyeh, gutra,
and egal, they're interest went way up.
They showed me how to put on the gutra.
The egal took a few tries because I have a large
head (around 7-5/8). I ended up with a nice one with long
dangling ropes in the back tied with gold thread. I also
bought one for Scott with silver threads. The kafiyeh was
crocheted with a nice pattern.
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| The Burj Dubai
(the world's tallest building) is next to the Dubai Mall.
DO NOT confuse the Dubai Mall with the Mall of the Emirates
(which has the ski ramp). |
The second tailor that I tried, which was just
around the corner, wouldn't acknowledge my presence and shall
therefore remain nameless. I literally just stood there for
15 minutes. He was busy talking to another customer in Arabic,
so I decided to just enjoy the air-conditioning and watch.
He was fitting two boys and the father was giving instructions
on what he wanted. When my feet started hurting, I said "Salaam" to
another man in the shop and asked if he spoke English. Then
French. Then Spanish. Then really bad Hindi. No luck. The
man who was ignoring me spoke English, but he just
sent me away until after lunch ("After I eat.").
I took the hint and went back to the hotel.
Dubai Mall
Later the same day, I took a taxi to the Dubai
Mall, which you must see to believe. They pointed me to the
Arabic Court, which is on a lower level. Keep in mind that
this mall is the size of six or seven US malls combined,
so if you get lost ask for help.
I settled on Al
Yashmac (Dubai
Mall, Lower Level, corner of the Arabic Court). The
salesmen were very friendly and spoke English. I bought
a kandura for Scott with a kurkusha,
another kandura for me with a collar, two faneelas,
and two woozars.
While I'm sure they thought my interest was
strange, I'm sure they've seen enough tourists to tolerate
it.
Popularizing Kanduras in the US
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| We often go out
shopping, to museums, and to nightclubs in our kanduras.
This is on J St. in Sacramento. |
This is my next big challenge. If you separate
the costume from the politics, there are many hot, dry, windy
regions of the United States where people would benefit from
a kandura, including California's central valley. They are
by far the most elegant way I've seen of beating the heat.
Scott and I went to the California State Fair
(Cal Expo) wearing our kanduras. I wasn't sure what the reception
would be, and didn't really care. Mostly people stared and
smiled; a dozen or so people asked if we were hot in them,
if they had a special meaning, or if they could touch them.
No one ignored us.
Are Kanduras Comfortable?
Yes. In hot, muggy weather,
they are especially nice since a) they're white and reflect
the sun's rays, b) they let air flow around the body, and
c) you can cross your legs without any restriction. Japanese hakama (the
"skirt" worn by horsemen and samurai) are similarly
open.
In colder weather (San Francisco fog and wind),
they are warm enough not to warrant a coat. You get the best
of both worlds. Plus, when the wind blows, they looks especially
striking.
Kanduras also help hide a belly. Several of
the men I saw in Dubai were obese, but the kandura cloaked
their paunch rather than accentuating it like trousers.

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| You can see
in the picture above how long the egal can be. Some
are much shorter, ending in the middle of the back. |
Feedback
If you want to send me a note, go
here. I'm especially interested
in hearing from people who have worn kanduras, or those who
spotted an egregious error in my write-up.
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