Eats - Afghani Restaurants

Cities covered: Sunnyvale, Fremont

Afghani House
1103 E. El Camino Real
Sunnyvale, CA 94087
408/248-5087
Dinner for two (no cocktails): $58
Most expensive entree: $29
Food: *** Service: *****
What is Afghani cuisine like? A rough idea would be closer to Indian than most Middle Eastern food.

The two-page menu offers several variations on kebabs or braised meats (lamb, beef, chicken, veal) and vegetarian entrees as well. For appetizers, we chose the mantu, steamed dumplings of ground meat in a yogurt sauce with vegetables (basically wontons), which were uninspired. The condiment for everything, including bread, is a jalepeno, garlic, vinegar, walnut pesto which has quite a kick.

Entrees were enormous. We both chose lamb: the yogurt-marinated kebabs were grilled and delicious. My dish was stewed or braised lamb under a layer of pilaf scented with cinammon and other spices, carrot strips, and raisins. I only finished a third of the enormous serving.

For dessert I had firnee, a milk pudding with sliced almonds, rosewater, and pistachios which was lovely (if you like rosewater in your desserts). The baghlava was a bit dense, having been soaked in syrup until the bottom was inpenetrable. One note: the dress code is actually semi-formal as I've learned from another review; if you show up ina t-shirt, you'll be seated near the kitchen.

Don't let the fading paint on the facade dissuade you. They spent all of the money on the interior of this medium-sized restaurant. Except for the odd use of cheap framed posters, the interior is understated and pleasantly lit. Service is exceptional: fast, professional, and the best I've experienced in the South Bay. 06/02

Salang Pass Restaurant
37462 Fremont Blvd
Fremont, CA
(510)795-9200
Lunch for two: $37
Food: **** Service: ****

We went here after hitting the final Design Within Reach warehouse sale in Hayward—gorgeous day, top down—and, it gives me a chance to broaden my knowledge of Afghani cuisine (the East Bay is well-known as having a huge Afghani ex-pat colony).

We started with steamed meat dumplings, mantoo, in a meat, tomato, and yogurt sauce and cooked sweetened pumpkin, kadu bouranee. The dumplings were delicious, but the pumpkin was out of this world—slightly sweet, luscious, with the sauce covered with a sprinkling of dried mint. Fantastic. The entrees were quite good as well. My friend had lamb pilaf with raisins, and carrots, kabuli palow. I had a spring lamb kebab, which was deliciously grilled, medium rare, and tender, the pieces still on the bone.

Service was very friendly and thoughtful, although the one waitress and busboy team were kept at a run the entire time. Our waitress steered us through the menu without raising an eyebrow until I over-ordered, whereupon she recommended something smaller and lighter.

The sign out front only says "Salang" and it's at the end of a nondescript minimall. If there's no parking out front, there's a big lot around the back which is where we ended up. The restaurant is medium-sized, maybe twenty tables. One section is under an enormous "tent" of silk fabric with cushions and low tables, but the rest is normal tables and chairs. This isn't a fancy place, but it has a lot of character and is very clean. Gigantic lunch for two, $37. 02/04