| A Note to
Visitors |
Keep in
mind when reading these reviews that I can't possibly
visit all of these restaurants on a monthly or
even annual basis. Chefs come and go, owners change,
and some places just vanish. A good 20% of the
places I've reviewed have closed so PLEASE
CALL THE RESTAURANT BEFORE GOING if you
follow my advice.
They are merely my humble opinions based on my
personal tastes, which definitely lean towards
the unusual.
Information on Super-Tasters
vs. Tasters vs. Non-Tasters |
|
| Cities Covered |
South Bay
San Jose
Santa Clara
Sunnyvale
Cupertino
Milpitas
Los Gatos
Willow Glen
|
Peninsula
San Mateo
Redwood City
Palo Alto
Woodside |
East Bay
Fremont
Hayward
|
San Francisco
South of Market
Outer Sunset
Chinatown
Japantown
Noriega St.
Geary St. |
Other
Sacramento
Long Beach
|
The
Quest for Xiao Long Bao
San
Francisco Bay Area, Vancouver, and Beyond... |
Xiao
Long Bao (or "little
steamer buns") are a Shanghai specialty.
They're tiny, perhaps 1-1/4"
across, and are typically filled with pork
or crab.
What makes them special
is that they are fllled with broth, so
when you pop one in your mouth and bite,
a flood of tasty soup fills your mouth...or
burns all of the skin off the room of
your mouth. BE CAREFUL before putting
one whole into your
mouth.
Below are my notes from my
search for the best xiao long bao in
the San Jose area, plus a few from my travels.
And, yes,
I did actually fly to Vancouver to try
the xiao long bao at Shanghai
Wind, which I've received emails about.
Unfortunately, I didn't find them extraordinary,
mostly because I think they use a method
which relies on the juice from the fatty
filling to create the soup. The gelled stock
method has cleaner tasting soup.
How I Do Chinese Black Vinegar
(chinkiang vinegar) and Ginger
Black Vinegar
I'm Japanese,
so black vinegar was new to me. You can find
chinkiang vinegar at your local Chinese grocery
store. You can dilute it (I do), and put
the super finely shredded fresh ginger root
in before you steam the dumplings.
The taste and acidity of chinkiang
vinegars vary quite a bit by brand. Some
are pretty gross (think burning tires).
The best one I've tasted had
the picture of a city on it, and had won
an award. Alas, I didn't write down the name.
Shredded Ginger
How thin is "super
fine"?
You should see the color of the cutting board
through the ginger. Fresh ginger root cuts
easier. Slice across the grain first to make
1mm thick "coins" of ginger, then
shred the coins. The shreds of ginger should
bend; if they at like toothpicks they're
too thick.
|
Found Great
XLB in the Bay Area? Send me a note!
Xiao Long Bao, sort of
Hu-Chiang Dumpling
House (10877 N. Wolfe Rd, Cupertino,
CA 95014 (408) 873-4813) still has
the grand opening sign up front.
I found out about it from a visitor
to this site, and I am VERY grateful.
Excellent dumplings,
although they aren't really xiaolongbao
from what we understood from the
waitress, but hu-chiang style
dumplings (I have no idea what that
means). We ordered XLB, crab dumplings,
chili oil wontons (the best I've
ever had), and beef with dried chili.
Total: $33, but well worth it. |
Making Them Yourself
Forget it...unless you
can practice for weeks on getting the dough
wrapped around the meat and gelled stock.
There's a recipe in the book
Buying Them and Heating
Them Up at Home
Absolutely. There's a
fantastic dumpling "factory" on
Noriega St. in San Francisco (thank you,
Chowhounders).
King of Chinese Dumpling
1426 Noriega St.
San Francisco, CA
(415) 665-6617
They have a variety of dumplings,
and the ones I steamed myself came out great.
Everything is frozen, so if it's not your
last stop, bring a freezer.
Happy Cafe in San Mateo will
also make them for you, I've heard. |
| Restaurant |
Hu-Chiang
Dumpling House |
Old Shanghai
Restaurant |
Su Hong
Restaurant
|
Shanghai
Ding Sheng Restaurant |
Shang
Hai Restaurant |
Happy
Cafe* |
| Xiao
Long Bao Rating |
**** |
*** |
**** |
*** |
**** |
*** |
| Location |
Cupertino |
San Francisco |
Palo Alto |
Milpitas |
Milpitas |
San Mateo |
Skins |
Thin |
Medium |
Paper Thin |
Medium |
Medium |
Medium |
| Broth |
Juicy, not fatty |
Thin, not super juicy |
Juicy, not fatty |
Juicy, not fatty |
Juicy |
Very juicy |
| Filling |
Balanced & delicious |
Sweet, we just tried
the pork & crab; not crabby |
Balanced |
Porky, but good |
Very soft texture, good
flavor |
Balanced |
What the dumplings
sit on in the steamer* |
Parchment
Paper :-( |
Parchment
Paper :-( |
Parchment
Paper :-( |
Parchment
Paper :-( |
Cabbage leaves :-) |
Cabbage leaves
:-) |
| Restaurant |
Yank
Sing |
Dumpling
King |
Shanghai
Wind |
Shanghai
East Restaurant |
Shanghai
Dumpling Company |
Shanghai
Gourmet |
| Xiao
Long Bao Rating |
**** |
*** |
*** |
*** |
** |
* |
| Location |
San Francisco |
San Francisco |
Vancouver |
San Mateo |
Millbrae |
Milpitas |
Skins |
Thin |
Medium |
Medium |
Thin |
Thin |
Medium |
| Broth |
Juicy, not
fatty |
Juicy |
Juicy & fatty |
Juicy |
Juicy |
Dry :-( |
| Filling |
Balanced, but they only
had pork |
Tasty, sweetish and porky |
Tasty |
Balanced |
Good, but a bit strong |
Bland |
What the dumplings
sit on in the steamer* |
Parchment
Paper :-( |
These are frozen, so
you can steam them on whatever you want |
Parchment
Paper :-( |
Parchment
Paper :-( |
Parchment
Paper :-( |
Parchment
Paper :-( |
* What
they use under the xiao long bao usually
determine whether the skins tear when you
try to pick them up out of the steamer basket.
Cabbage leaves are non-stick and add a subtle
flavor, while those little circles of parchment
can adhere to the bottoms and sometimes tear
the skins when you peel them off.
|
|
10 Rules for Eating Well
1. Never eat at a chain
restaurant if there are alternatives.
2. Don't eat at empty restaurants,
especially if it's in a hotel. The only
exception is if you're in India.
3. If you're going for ethnic
food, eat only where there are members
of that ethnicity present. Or truckers.
4. Have a list of standby
restaurants that are consistently good,
then order something you've never had unless it's
Peruvian "cow feet," which a)
took forever to cook and b) arrived with
little hairs sticking out of it.
5. Never go with someone
who says "oh, I always order the same
thing" unless the same thing is something
you've never heard of. |
|
6. If you're eating at
a Chinese restaurant, order off the Chinese-language
menu. If you don't read Chinese, make Chinese
friends.
7. If there's no lock on
the door, it's a good sign (open 24/7),
but order whatever you see everyone else
ordering to avoid food poisoning.
8. If you're going to eat
something exotic, understand what you're
eating so you can at least appreciate the
effort that went into it even if you hate
it.
9. Don't order to impress
anyone but yourself. If you feel like eating
meatloaf, order the meatloaf. Your body
knows best.
10. Let you mood and the
weather be your guide. Sometimes what you
need is as simple as a ham & cheese sandwich
on white bread. |
|
| A
Rambling Discourse on the Main Course |
People
are usually confounded when I say that I don't
really care for Japanese food. Most Japanese
restaurant staplesbeef
teriyaki, shrimp tempura, sukiyakiare
what I ate at home every week of every year
for eighteen years, and my father's versions
were far, far better.
Sushi is was what we ate
instead of hotdogs at summer picnics. And,
I've seen how non-Asians drown sushi and sashimi
in soy sauce, which is revolting and a
huge waste of money.
What Everyone Else Eats
When I was ten, I remember visiting a friend's
house on the north side of Chicago (near Granville
station) and tasting Kraft macaroni and cheese
for the first time. It was the first time I'd
eaten food that came from a cardboard
box. The same went for Jello instant custard
with nutmeg. To me both were as exotic as pastilla or boudin
noir.
Enter my 1960s-vintage feminist
sister and her insistence that I learn how to
cook for myself ("You should be independent!
Don't rely on anyone!"). She taught me basic
kitchen crafthow to fry an egg, how to
boil pastaand I took it from there.
By the time I left 4th grade,
I could make a decent breakfast of fluffy omelettes,
waffles, sausages, and coffee—and time everything
so it hit the table at the same time.
The Lean
Years
As dirt poor film student in LA, I pursued a
what a kid from Sacramento might consider a Bohemian
lifestyle: living in a roach-infested tenement
and surviving on $15 a week in groceries, purchased
mostly with Safeway double coupons. This translates
into a vegetarian Japanese diet of rice and
pickles, which I still revert to when I need
to lose weight. |
When
I did have some spare cash, I learned to appreciate
the mom-and-pop restaurants surrounding USC
(juicy carne asada burritos at La Barca on Western)
and the occasional splurge (buttery, blood-rare
2" thick
New York steaks at The Pantry on Figueroa).
Now that I have (or had) the means
to eat as I please, I've been able to try new
meats, veggies, pastas, soups, and spicings.
Indian food and Chinese (as opposed to Chinese-American)
food have both been revelatory.
This includes skilled preparations
of foods Japanese people traditionally don't
eatchitterlings, organ meats, cheesehave
opened up new possibilities.
Over six years, my boss
at Siebel introduced me to a number of regional
Chinese dishes. Chinese food is one of the few
cuisines that keeps secrets. When you walk into
a Chinese restaurant and they hand you an English-only
menu, you are most likely seeing half of the
actual menu, and it's usually the bad half.
If
my parents (to whom I had to explain what "tendon" is)
knew that my favorite dish is chitterlings, congealed
pigs blood, preserved mustard greens, and tofu
in a spicy sauce...well, they wouldn't.
Likewise, the exuberant fragrance
of a perfectly spiced curry is a far cry from
the dashi-dominated austerity of Japanese food. Rogan
josh, chicken shahjahani, and a juicy
tandoori fish all eaten with garlicky nan are
my favorites. The most interesting variation
on this has been vegetarian foods. Masala
dosa and vada fried
in ghee are my new weekend snacks.
I hope that answers any questions
you may have about why someone would spend so
much effort on maintaining an amateur restaurant
listing. |
| The following pages list some of my favorite and not-so-favorite restaurants. If you know of a restaurant that serves a dish you love, send me a note.
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